Wind Generated Surface Waves

Objectives:
To give physical insight into how the wind creates sea surface waves, how they travel and disperse across the ocean, and how they end up on a shore.

Content:
The course covers wind-generated waves, linear and non-linear theory of gravity waves in shallow and deep water, theories of how waves are generated by the wind and observation methods of waves and the treatment of wave data. Statistical tools in the interpretation of wave data and models of wave forecasting will also be discussed. Compulsory exercises and seminars are parts of the course.

On completion of the course the student should have the following learning outcomes defined in terms of knowledge, skills and general competence:

Knowledge

The student
- knows how the surface waves propagate and disperse in deep and shallow waters
- knows how the surface waves are created, how they interact, and how they dissipate

Skills:

The student
- is able to apply statistical methods to handle wave observations
- is able to discuss how wave heights can be forecasted.

General competence:

The student
- can describe various wave prediction methods, numerical and manual
- can interpret output of wave forecast models