Reconstructing the 12th century Borgund curly pile textile
New research paper explores how the 12th century Borgund curly pile textile can have been made. The paper is by Monika Ravnanger, Marta Kløve Juuhl, Elizabeth Johnston, Ina Vanden Berghe and Gitte Hansen. A link to the paper is found below.
Published: (Updated: )
Pile-woven textiles are rare archaeological finds. In Borgund an unusually well-preserved mid-12th century textile fragment with a knotted pile was found. One side is twill woven, while on the other, long curly tufts of wool thread have been woven and knotted in. The Borgund curly pile textile stands out: the pile is curled in a way that has not been previously documented, and the knot is unlike other known pile knots, although the weave of the textile does resemble other known pile woven finds woven by the research team’s craftspeople. The article presents analyses of the textile and the subsequent experimental work. The reconstruction process is documented from data collection and analysis through raw material selection, including the production processes of spinning and weaving and time spent on these processes. Furthermore, the time-use, that is, the time needed for the production of av a 'varafell size’ (circa 1 x 2 metre) example of the fabric, the original use of the textile and final disposal of the worn-out piece of cloth are addressed. The results of the case study are the reconstruction and the knowledge that emerged through the process.
The Borgund textile and yarn spun by Elizabeth Johnston for the experimental reconstruction.
Monika Ravnanger weaving on an upright loom for the experimental reconstruction of the Borgund curly pile textile.